Saturday, March 1, 2008

Castles in the Desert

Weekend at the Oasis
Dan here. The cold of winter is finally over, so we better hurry to see some desert castles before the oppressive summer heat arrives. This weekend, we drove to Eastern Jordan, taking all of the "this way to Iraq" highway exits, ending up in the Azraq Oasis, home to an ever-shrinking oasis, and Qasr Azraq, a 2000-year-old fortress that was home to Lawrence of Arabia for a time. I always try to maintain a poker face when tour guides mention Lawrence. Surely his presence helps market the castle, but many in the Middle East regard Lawrence as a duplicitous glory hog, yet another white man who organized the bumbling savages. I am concerned that showing undue interest is expected, and perceived (silently, with a gracious smile) as insulting.

Footpath through the reeds at a nearby wetlands conservation park

Duffy is really fond of this scraggly tree amongst the reeds


Some of the wetland footpath is actually a thousand-year-old Umayyad wall


Stables at Qasr Azraq


"Lawrence slept here" Duffy in the upstairs room where Lawrence stayed in 1917


From last week's trek to Umm Al Rasas

Some cleanup is needed before this UNESCO World Heritage Site is ready for prime time


Mysterious square tower at Umm Al Rasas, topped by living room with windows, but without stairs inside or out. Heavily damaged by earthquakes, we did not ascend the scaffolding, despite invitation from a freelance (not apparently licensed) tour guide.

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